Hard to believe it's almost a year since we brought the blog up to date. We apologize profusely to all those who kept checking regularly and wondered what had happened to us. All I can say it was a busy winter, spring and summer and we hope to get caught up in the near future. We hope you remember the drill - oldest pictures at the bottom, latest pictures at the top so it's best to start at the bottom and work your way up. We hope you enjoy our pictures and forgive us if we've forgotten some of the details; after all, it's been a while!!!
Our next stop of the day was the Journey Museum which takes you through time from the beginning of the Black Hills 2.5 billion years ago to the days of the Wild, Wild West. You can see weapons and toys from the Sioux, a prospector's gold scales and a bullet-pierced tunic from Wounded Knee. There are doors and drawers to snoop through, walls that are really windows, story walls that speak and the highlight for me was Nellie Two Bulls in her tipi. She is actually a hologram who mysteriously appears and tells you a story. I tried to get a picture of her but of course that was impossible since she was a hologram. Duh!!!!
A "Stabbur" with a grass roof was carved in Norway and imported to be a reception centre and gift shop. I had a tough time getting out of that gift shop without buying out the store.
September 30 - After spending 5 days camping just outside Rapid City, we decided it was time to check out the sights of the city. After shopping at the Christmas Store and buying some beautiful Black Hills gold jewellry at one of the local gold factories, we made our way downtown to the Presidential Walk. Seated or standing on busy street corners in the downtown area are life-size bronze statues of 35 U.S. presidents. By next year they hope to have all the presidents' statues completed. I chose to stand with John F. Kennedy and his son John, Jr.
legacy!
This is an outline of how the world's largest sculpture in progress will look when it is finished. It will be 641 feet long and 563 feet high, carved in the round with a 219 foot high horse's head.
A model of Crazy Horse in front of the actual mountain sculpture.
Here you can see the work going on creating the head of Crazy Horse. He gazes out, pointing to the sacred Black Hills of which he once said "My lands are where my dead lie buried" in response to a question asked by a white man "Where are your lands now?". Crazy Horse died in 1877 after being stabbed in the back by an American soldier.
Not too far from Mount Rushmore is another huge sculpture in the works - Crazy Horse. Creation of the world's largest sculpture began in 1948 by Korczak Ziolkowski. While helping Borglum on Mount Rushmore, he was asked by Standing Bear and Lakota Sioux elders to create a mountainous tribute to North American Indians. When Korczak died in 1982 the mountain showed only a hint of a horse and its rider - Crazy Horse, a Lakota leader. However, he passed along his plans, vision and dedication to hard work to his wife and their 10 children and they are completing the project with no federal funding. He felt the people, not the government, should provide the financing. The 88-foot high face of Crazy Horse was dedicated on June 3, 1998, 50 years to the day after Korczak's first blast. They are now working on the horse's head.
A bust of artist and sculptor Gutzon Borglum
Another view of Mount Rushmore. Borglum wanted to include a place at the memorial to share Americal history with all the visitors so he planned a large room that would be carved into the vertical wall of a canyon behind the faces that would be called the "Hall of Records" where he hoped important documents like the Declaration of Independence would be stored. Work began on the Hall in 1938 but unfortunately the funding was cut off and only a doorway and a small hallway were completed just to the east of Lincoln's face.
Ted and I and the four presidents.
We walked the Presidential Trail where we could get a closer view of the Presidents - Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln. Borglum planned it so the presidents' faces would catch both the morning and afternoon sun. Each face is 60 feet high.
September 27 - The entrance to Mount Rushmore - one of the highlights of our trip! We walked across the Avenue of Flags to the Grand View Terrace. The carving of the faces of the four presidents into Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills was started in 1927 by Gutzon Borglum and completed in 1941 with the help of 400 workers. The faces tower 5500 feet above sea level and are scaled to men who would stand 465 feet tall. Borglum faced unimaginable difficulties in carving the Memorial - no roads in the vicinity, harsh winters, inadequate funding, the Depression, sculpting with dynamite and opposition from the local people. However, when it was completed everyone was awed and amazed by Borglum's accomplishment. It is truly awe-inspiring.
The Center of the Nation is marked by a 21-foot diameter monument made of South Dakota granite in the shape of the compass rose at the Belle Fourche Visitor Centre. Each of the states is embossed onto the monument and a 12-inch bronze marker from the Geodetic Survey marks the spot of the Center of the Nation. Flags of the 50 states surround the monument.
September 26 - Belle Fourche, South Dakota - the city located closest to the geographic centre of the U.S.A. The true centre is located in a pasture 13 miles north and ~8 miles west and is marked by a survey marker and an American flag.
One of the 26 rooms in the Chateau de Mores.
The Chateau de Mores - a 26 room, two-storey frame house built in 1883 as the summer residence of the Marquis' family and now a historical museum. When I was a child (many decades ago, I know!), I passed through Medora while on a holiday with my sister, brother-in-law and their two children. For some strange reason, the sight of this house stuck in my head and I vowed that I would one day go back and see it again. Today was the day! However by the time we got there, it was closed for the day so we peaked through the windows and walked around the grounds. It was a nice house and pretty grandiose for the time, I'm sure, but for the life of me I do not know why this house made such an impression on me. I may have to undergo some type of therapy to figure it out.
Back in Medora we visited Chimney Park. This is all that remains of the de Mores meat packing plant. The town of Medora was founded in April 1883 by a 24-year-old French nobleman, the Marquis de Mores. He named the town after his bride, Medora. With financial backing from Medora's father, he built a meat packing plant, a hotel, stores and a large home overlooking the new town. By the fall of 1886 all his various enterprises ended in financial failure and he, his wife and children all returned to France. He was killed by native tribesmen on the Sahara Desert in Africa in June 1896. He may have been adventurous and a visionary, but he certainly wasn't very lucky!
Inside the Medora Visitor Centre stands a replica of Theodore Roosevelt on a horse. Behind the Centre is the restored Maltese Cross cabin that Roosevelt used before building the Elkhorn Ranch. All that remains of the Ranch are a few foundation walls.
Real scoria is volcanic in origin. However, where coal seams have caught fire and baked the surrounding sand and clay, the locals call the result scoria. It is almost like a natural brick. Over the years, erosion has worn away the softer earth and left the bluffs capped with scoria, a harder, more resistant material. The colours are so vibrant.
Erosion has worn away all but the hardest materials leaving a field of buttes and canyons. The badlands are home to a wide variety of animals - bison, prairie dogs, several species of birds, mule deer, wild horses, white-tailed deer and elk - as well as over 500 species of plants.
The Coal Vein Trail sounded interesting so we decided to hike it. From 1951 until early 1977 a fire burned here in a coal seam. The intense heat baked the clay and sand alongside the seam which changed the appearance of the terrain and disturbed the vegetation. The layers of brick-red rock are locally called "scoria" but are more properly known as "clinker". The thick grayish-blue layer is bentonite. It was formed 55 million years ago when volcanoes spewed ash over a large area including North Dakota. Time, heat and pressure turned the ash into clay. Bentonite is used in over 1,000 products including chocolate bars, milkshakes and toothpaste. Makes you rethink what you put in your mouth, doesn't it???
Looks like we're being swallowed up by the earth, but we're actually just sitting on a ledge at the top of Buck Hill. The Badlands are often described as a moonscape and that definitely applied at this location.
A very unusual rock formation. Looks like someone with a very long nose kneeling in prayer to me. Or a dinosaur of some sort. Maybe an aardvark. What do you think??
We hiked the Wind Canyon Trail to a ridge overlooking the Little Missouri River. Two large herds of bison could be seen from this overlook.
Not your typical small town! This is a prairie dog town - one of many found in the grasslands of the Park. Of the five species of prairie dogs, only the black-tailed prairie dogs live in the Park.
He looks a little angry and confrontational. I'm glad we were on our side of the road!
After leaving the viewpoint, we drove the 36-mile Scenic Loop through the Park. I think the driver of the truck met his match when he came across this bison. Obviously no one told the bison that he's supposed to stay on the right side of the road.
In the same valley stood a lone majestic bison. Bison were reintroduced into the Park in 1956.
We were thrilled to see some wild horses racing across the valley.
September 25 - Our first stop of the day was the Painted Canyon Visitor Centre and Overlook at the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park near Medora. What an incredible view of the Badlands! The colours were amazing! Roosevelt first came to North Dakota in 1883. He became interested in the cattle business and joined two other men as partners in the Maltese Cross Ranch. In 1884 he returned from New York and started the Elkhorn Ranch. He first came to North Dakota to hunt bison, but by the time he arrived the large herds had already been decimated by hunters and disease. After watching the destruction of other big game species and the overgrazing of the grasslands which destroyed the habitats of some small mammals and songbirds, he became very interested in conservation. When he became president in 1901, he established the U.S. Forest Service and eventually established five national parks and 51 wildlife refuges.
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