Friday, July 25, 2008

From Seward to Carcross

Hi! I know you know the drill by now so I won't repeat myself!
Hard to imagine a desert in the Yukon, but there is one at Carcross. It is the world's smallest desert composed of sandy lake-bottom material left behind by a large glacial lake. Dirt bikers were having a great time riding up and down the sand dunes.
July 5 - After spending the night at a turnout at Takhini Burn, about 40 miles from Whitehorse, we drove down the South Klondike Highway to Skagway. We just had to stop at Emerald Lake (aka Rainbow Lake) just as beautiful as its namesake near Field, BC. Haines Junction - Gateway to the Kluane. A neat monument welcoming everyone to the area. We were very glad to reach Haines Junction, too. We finally found a road worse than the ones leading from Cabri, SK to Gull Lake and Leader. Driving the road from Tok to Haines Junction was like riding a roller coaster. You can dodge potholes, but it's hard to avoid a frost heave - especially miles and miles of them!
Nothing like a fake police car to slow you down. I guess this is Haines Junction's substitute for photo radar. It seemed only fitting that we saw a bear at Bear Creek Summit, the highest point on the Alaska Highway between Whitehorse and Yukon.
Kluane Lake - the largest lake in the Yukon covering more than 154 square miles/400 square kilometres. Unfortunately it was cloudy and drizzling rain so our view was not the best. One cub was trying to play with Mom, but she ignored him and kept on foraging for food. It was fun to watch them. More grizzlies - a sow and her two cubs.
Driving through Kluane National Park, we got a great view of the Icefield Mountain Range, the main group of peaks in the St. Elias Mountains. This range also includes Canada's highest mountain and the second highest in North America, Mount Logan, which is difficult to see from the highway. Burwash Landing is one of the oldest settlements in the Yukon and its known for its black spruce burl bowls. It also claims to have the world's largest gold pan.
We were hoping to see a grizzly in our travels and finally we got our wish. This bear showed absolutely no fear as he munched on the flowers on the side of the road. He did get a little testy-looking when Ted whistled at him to get his attention!
Snag's claim to fame is the lowest recorded temperature in Canada: -81.4F/-63C recorded on February 3, 1947. Now that's a cold from which we'd really want to escape.
At Tok we rejoined the Alaska Highway and spotted these two trumpeter swans just before crossing back into Canada at Beaver Creek.
What is it about dogs? You blow in their faces and they get mad, but give them an open window and they've got their heads out the window letting the wind blow through their ears. July 4 - On the road again. We had to wait in Tok for the 4th of July parade to go by. Unfortunately we missed most of the parade, but the state trooper made us wait until all was clear. Chapel on the Hill - a log church built in 1942 by Rev. Vincent Joy and U.S. Army volunteers stationed in the area. The church bell was sent from a church in Pennsylvania and had originally been used on a Pennsylvania Railroad steam locomotive. The town of Copper Center, 100 miles north of Valdez, is situated on the Klutina River and was the first gold rush town in the Copper River Valley. As you can tell the residents have a good sense of humor. Beside the Thompson Pass is a pullout where you can get an awesome view of the valley and the Chugach Mountains. Early gold miners hauled gold shipments, freight and even an entire riverboat, the 70-ton "Chitina", piece by piece over the Pass to the Copper River.
The Old Railroad Tunnel - This tunnel was hand cut into the solid rock and is all that remains of the railroad era when 9 companies fought to take advantage of the short route from the coast to the Copper Valley. A gun battle was fought between supporters of the Cordova to Chitina Railroad and competitors from Valdez. The tunnel was never finished. The road through Keystone Canyon is actually a restored section of the Trans-Alaska Military Packtrain Trail that led to the first glacier-free land route from Valdez to the interior of Alaska. On the way back to our campsite, we drove through Keystone Canyon about 13 miles north of Valdez and managed to get a picture of both Horsetail Falls (on the right) and Bridal Veil Falls (on the left). This is all that remains of the waterfront of the original townsite of Valdez. The Good Friday earthquake of 1964 had a devastating impact on Valdez. The quake triggered an underwater landslide which created huge waves that washed away the Valdez waterfront, drowning 30 people on the dock and 3 men on the steamer "Chena". In 1967 the Town of Valdez was condemned when it was discovered that the town was sitting on unstable ground. Fifty-two buildings were moved 4 miles east of its original site to the town's current location . This is where the original Valdez Post Office stood and the plaques detail the town's history and commemorate those who died in the earthquake.
Artist Peter Toth created this huge carving dedicated to the Indians of America. It is located in front of the Prince William Sound Community College dormitory. Another is located right on the campus itself. In fact, it's so big, it is currently in third place in the Halibut Derby. It is also the weekly leader. Last year's winner caught a 340 lb. halibut. This is a huge halibut- 192.7 lbs. - that was caught just before we arrived at the dock. We couldn't believe the size of it especially when you compare it to a regular halibut. If you don't know how to cut up a salmon or halibut, Valdez is a great place to learn. There are fish processing stations at all the docks where pros will teach you the basics of Fish Cutting 101. Another indication of how great the fishing is in Valdez. You can fish from the dock at the city dock, from the shore at Allison Point on Dayville Road or from a charter boat in Prince William Sound. The Halibut Derby runs from May 24 to August 31 and the Silver Salmon Derby from July 28 to August 31.
Dayville Road leads to shoreside camping, picnicking and lots of fishing by the young and the old. We started to think that you had to enjoy fishing to get the most out of Alaska. It's definitely the state pastime.
The end of the line for the Trans-Alaska Pipeline - Valdez, Alaska. This is the Alyeska Pipeline marine terminal complex. At least one tanker a day comes into the port, but no tanker will ever be as famous as the Exxon Valdez which struck Bligh Reef on Good Friday (March 24), 1989 causing the largest oil spill in North American history. Once again we are travelling parallel to the Alaska Pipeline and occasionally we get glimpses of it through the trees. Snow poles along the highway mark the road edge for snowplows. We are descending from Thompson Pass where record snowfalls have been measured - 974.5 inches for the 1952-53 season, 298 inches for the month of February, 1953 and 62 inches for a 24-hour period in December, 1955. Glad we don't have to drive this highway in the winter! Here I am standing at the edge of the glacial moraine left behind when the glacier started to recede.
Ted and the dogs climbed right to the base of an ice fissure. You can hike to one finger of the glacier. Another glacier - what can I say? Alaska is full of them. This is Worthington Glacier on Girls Mountain. Only Mount Wrangell is visible in this picture; it is Alaska's largest active volcano and a plume of steam can often be seen rising from the dome-like summit. Across the Copper River four beautiful mountain peaks in a row - Sandford, Drum, Wrangell and Blackburn - make up the Wrangell Mountain Range, part of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. This is actually a range of ancient volcanoes. Four mountain ranges and 9 of the 16 highest peaks can be found in the largest park in the United States. Here you can see Mount Sanford and Mount Drum.
July 3 - We stayed overnight at Dry Creek State Recreation Site outside Glennallen and drove the Richardson Highway down to Valdez. Our first stop was the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve Visitor Center. During the Klondike Gold Rush most stampeders headed to the Yukon via Skagway and the Chilkoot Pass. Many Americans objected to that route because it was under Canadian control so the U.S. government constructed an alternate route from Valdez to Fairbanks. This is the last remaining section of the original Valdez Trail. Colourful Sheep Mountain is home to Dall sheep (but we didn't see any).
We drove past beautiful Matanuska Glacier in Glacier Park. We decided we'd seen enough glaciers for a while so we just took pictures.
After travelling through Anchorage we drove the Glenn Highway through Palmer, Alaska's only agricultural community, and on towards Glenallen. Just past Chickaloon we had to wait for construction - a common occurrence on Alaskan highways. Here they are blasting a new road through the side of a hill.
July 2 - We're back on the Seward Highway heading towards Anchorage. This, a few other buildings in similar shape and a rusty truck are all that remains of the town of Portage. The Good Friday earthquake of 1964 was centered 50 miles from Portage. Though the earthquake lasted less than 3 minutes, it completely destroyed the town and all residents had to be evacuated. The ground slumped 8 feet and the buildings were buried by silt from incoming tides. The dead trees were killed by salt water.

The Wild World of Captain Dan

Hi! A new entry at last! We were without WiFi for several days. Same as before. Scroll to the bottom for the oldest entries and work your way to the top for the newest. Captions are below the pictures.
Returning to the Small Boat Harbour in Seward. We were sad to see our cruise come to an end. What a day - whales, porpoises, sea lions, sea otters, harbour seals, puffins, eagles and a sailboat rescue to top it all off. Definitely a day to remember! Thanks, Captain Dan!
Bear Glacier in Resurrection Bay.
Our boat was swarmed by Dall's Porpoises. They look like miniature Orca whales. It was incredibly difficult to get pictures of them because they would zigzag quickly from one side of the boat to the other. By the time I took the picture, they were gone. They can swim up to 55 kph and create a spray called a "rooster tail". I ended up with a lot of rooster tail pictures! Thank heaven for digital cameras - delete, delete!!
A bald eagle keeping watch from high on a cliff.
Another cliff dweller - the cormorant.
From a distance they look like penguins ready to jump off the edge, but they are actually common murres who nest on sheer cliff ledges.
Another look at the Steller sea lions on our way back. The western population of Steller sea lions has been classified as endangered. Rookeries are less crowded than they were 40 years ago but fortunately their numbers are on the rise again.
Here you can see all types of seabirds including puffins and kittiwakes swimming or flying always on the lookout for fish.
Another whale fluke. I was so proud whenever I managed to get a good fluke picture!
We met a group of kayakers as we started to head back. There are several kayaking companies in Seward that offer anything from 3 hour introductory tours to 12 day expeditions. Captain Dan threw them a box of chocolate bars to give them some extra energy to keep on rowing.
The crew untied the rope and threw it into the water. The man concentrated on pulling the rope back into the boat while his poor wife did her best to catch up to him in her dinghy. I guess we know his priorities!!!! Their misadventure certainly added some excitement to our day.
. . . until it almost capsized. Then the man on the boat kept reversing his boat until it became free.
Captain Dan pulled the sail boat over onto its side . . .
Our boat's crew retrieved the rope from the lady and tied it off on our boat. Then the fun began . . .
Our boat actually got to participate in a rescue during our cruise. A couple's sail boat got caught on some rocks during low tide so Captain Dan agreed to come to their rescue. The lady rowed over in her dinghy bringing a rope attached to the top of the mast of the sailboat.
I believe this is Red Stone Glacier on the eastern side of the fjord.
A view of the mountains as we were leaving the Northwestern Fjord heading into the Gulf of Alaska.
On our way back out of the fjord we saw more harbour seals. This one was peaking out of the water to see what he could see.
Here you can get an idea of just how thick the ice is on some of these glaciers.
Another glacier in the Northwestern Fjord; I believe it was called Western Glacier. Captain Dan mentioned that they weren't too imaginative when it came to naming the glaciers in this fjord. This one was calving a lot; if you look closely you can see a spray of snow falling down the mountain side.
Cruising the fjords . . . what a great day!
Northwestern Glacier at the base of Northwestern Fjord was an incredible sight. Chunks of ice calving would send a spray of water high into the air. It sounded like a loud crack of thunder. Cruising into this fjord, we were surrounded by several glaciers but only a few of them were tidewater glaciers, glaciers that reach the sea. Others were hanging glaciers or valley glaciers. All were spectacular.
Harbour seals were riding on the ice floes or swimming in the water.
Glacial ice started appearing in the water as we headed around Aligo Point through the Granite Passage towards the Northwestern Fjord.
Steller sea lions soaking up the sun on No Name Island (part of Chiswell Islands). Two of them were upset with each other and you could hear them bellowing and growing at each other.
I did manage to catch the fluke of one of the dozen or so humpbacks we saw that day. Many were too far away to get a good picture.
This is the picture I got - the big SPLASH!
It was an incredible sight and I was so busy watching that I forgot to take a picture. Fortunately Ted befriended a couple from Florida who managed to get these two awesome pictures and were kind enough to let us borrow them from their blog. Thanks, Tom & Nan.
We were fortunate to see this juvenile humpback breaching which is whale talk for jumping out of the water.
One of the many humpback whales that we saw. This one was blowing (exhaling water through its blowhole).
Captain Dan was always on the lookout for marine wildlife to show us and wow, did he come through!
Fox Island - Kenai Fjords Tours has a private day lodge on Fox Island. We stopped here to pick up people who had spent the night in one of the cabins. The tour company also offered a dinner cruise that ended with a salmon dinner and a park ranger presentation on the Island which was very tempting, but I chose glaciers and fjords over salmon and a slide show.
Can you tell I was enjoying myself? Except for eating our continental breakfast and our lunch (chicken wraps, carrots, apples and granola bars) inside, I spent the entire day on the deck. It was so much fun.
Our first marine wildlife of the day - a cute little sea otter doing the backstroke in Resurrection Bay.
Lots of RVers park alongside the beach. It's great until you need water, sewer, power and WiFi. Just call us spoiled. Roughing it is great once in a while, though, especially if it's right beside the ocean.
Seward is a major coal terminal. As we were leaving the harbour we could see where the coal from railway cars is unloaded onto ships which then delivers the coal to Japan.
Meet Captain Dan - our fearless leader!
July 1 - Happy Canada Day! The highlight of the trip for me - a Kenai Fjords Tour to Northwestern Glacier. We spent over 9 hours on our boat - the Chugach - travelling 150 miles round trip. It was awesome!
The Overlook path to the edge of Exit glacier.
You never know what you might see on a glacier hike!!
Seward is known as the "Gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park". Glaciers flowed down to the sea from the Harding Ice Field (300 square miles) and then retreated, leaving behind fjords, deeply carved glacial valleys filled with sea water. A National Park was created to protect the icefield, glaciers, coastline and wildlife. Exit Glacier is the most accessible of the park's glaciers.
A view of Seward from Nash Road.
A monument looking out towards Resurrection Bay. The train on the weathervane commemorates the fact that Seward is Mile 0 of the Alaska Railroad. Alaska's first railroad was a 50-mile track that started here in 1903. It eventually extended all the way to Fairbanks via Anchorage, a distance of 470 miles.
Seward claims the status of "Mile 0" of the famous 1150 mile Iditarod Trail. The Trail was first used by the Inuit and Athabascans as a route to Nome but it wasn't until 1908 that it was officially mapped. It was used extensively by coal and gold miners to carry freight and mail during the winter months. In 1915 1.5 tons of gold arrived by dog team in Seward, mushed by 46 dogs. It is best known for the "Great Race of Mercy" in 1925 when diptheria broke out in Nome and there was a shortage of serum. Serum was taken by train to Nenana from Seward and then picked up by a sled dog relay made up of 20 of Alaska's best dog mushers and teams who carried the serum 674 kms in less than 5 1/2 days. Today the Iditarod is best known as the sled dog race which has its ceremonial start in Anchorage and its real start in Willow on the first Saturday of March. It officially began in 1973 as a way to encourage the designation of the trail as a National Historic Trail and to revive the dying tradition of dogsledding in Alaska. The Iditarod record was set in 2002 - 8 days, 22 hours, 46 mins and 2 secs.
Downtown Seward with Mount Marathon in the background. In 1909, a couple of old sourdoughs made a wager as to how long it would take to run up and down Mount Marathon. This developed into a yearly event around 1915 and on July 4th, competitors from all over run up and jump/slide/skid/fall down the 3,022 foot rocky mountain. It is a grueling run; the world record is 43 minutes, 23 seconds set in 1981. Apparently it usually takes about 35 minutes to climb up and only about 15 to dash down.
June 30 - Seward, Alaska. The town of just over 3000 people was named for William Seward, a member of Lincoln's cabinet, who bought Alaska from the Russians. It wasn't until the 1890s that this area was settled, but its ice-free harbour made it an obvious port. The Small Boat Harbour is home to sailboats, fishing boats and cruisers with beautiful mountains as a backdrop.